This video shows the use of Nissan DataScan II software to program new transponder keys. Most new Nissan cars have a build in immobiliser and any new keys have to be registered before they can be.
I have not ever really had to depend on Datascan to troubleshoot anything.ever. I am posting a pic of my datascan screen and I need someone to look at the readings and tell me why it feels like it is not tuned correctly. It feels like it is supposed to be more powerful. My RB20DET is now in a Nissan Hardbody pickup, and I pretty much 'adjusted' EVERYTHING under the hood trying to make it start and idle before I found a couple of wiring errors. Now I have no idea which sensors are tuned incorrectly.
I have a very tight-feeling clutch pedal and a stage 2 clutch installed when I did the swap, but when I leave a red-light, I have to rev/clutch a few times and it launches sorrier and slower than my KA24 sohc hardbody.it isn't supposed to be like this I have to rev super high to spin the tires but even then it is a let down. The readings you see in the picture at taken at IDLE.I am most curious about my TPS, Timing, and Injection because those are the ones I 'adjusted' back and forth. (and I am pretty sure my O2 sensor is not working.probably part of my powerloss due to running rich? After turning the TPS down slightly and, more importantly, turning the CAS clockwise 1/2 of an inch or so.It launches even worse, tends to backfire a little bit around 4-5k rpm, but it has better acceleration??? Here are the readings, at idle, after the two adjustments I just mentioned.
As you can see from before and after photos of the datascan software, I already know the TPS adjustment also dropped my rpms by about 1000rpm, and my CAS adjustment dropped my timing down significantly. But what is the 'perfect tune'?? For an idling RB20DET, what SHOULD these numbers be??????
Thanks, --TJ. Yellow4g63 wrote:Don't use the data scan screen to adjust your tps. Break out the volt meter and set it to.48. Is the ECU in your car Auto or 5speed? Base timing should be set at 15 or 20 depending on the ecu.
Check your fuel psi and set it to stock which I forget it is but a search should locate that. If it's idling too high adjust the idle air valve and check for boost leaks. It is a 5sp, and the ecu has a sticker that says 'Blitz' (or something like it.) I don't have a timing light. Is there a way I can set the timing correctly by using datascan? If so, should the engine be off or idling, and what should the datascan timing reading be?
I will do that on the psi and tps.psi is typically 37/44, depending on vaccuum or not. I have noticed that my fuel pressure is going crazy on me, unless my cheap gauge/sensor are just that horrible. I can set f/p by using the gauge and within two days, I look at the gauge and f/p is up around 65psi. When I give it full throttle, my f/p jumps about 15-20 psi no matter what I have it set to.bad gauge/sensor or is something adjusting my vaccuum (or anything) and resulting in higher fuel pressure??? I have spent way too long adjusting one sensor to make up for another side-symptom.I have been 'robbing peter to pay paul' and now I have to set it all straight again.
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Also, you should not try to use my a/f ratio reading in my datascan pics.it doesn't ever move for some reason. Could a bad o2 sensor result in such oddball performance and high/unpredictable fuel pressure???
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Yellow4g63 wrote:Don't use the data scan screen to adjust your tps. Break out the volt meter and set it to.48. Is the ECU in your car Auto or 5speed? Base timing should be set at 15 or 20 depending on the ecu. Check your fuel psi and set it to stock which I forget it is but a search should locate that. If it's idling too high adjust the idle air valve and check for boost leaks.